Grand Canyon: Bright Angel Trail Versus South Kaibab Trail

Wy wife Wendy and I have been hiking in the Grand Canyon for close to 25 years. We have hiked both the Bright Angel and the South Kaibab Trails hundreds of times each. At the writing of this article we have completed just under (40) Rim 2 Rim 2 Rim's. We presently reside in the Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim and hike below the Rim 3-4 times a week. Quite often, we are asked "Which is the better trail to hike?" This is a difficult question to answer without personal knowledge of the hiker. Therefore, here is an outline of the trail characteristics so that you may choose for yourself.

PERMITS You do not need a permit to "day hike" on any trail in the Grand Canyon. You also do not need a permit if you have a reservation and are a guest at Phantom Ranch. However, you will need a backcountry permit if you plan on camping below the rim. The Backcountry Information Center's phone number is: 928-638-7875. TRAIL ACCESS The Bright Angel Trail has the better access as it is located in the Grand Canyon Village. You may walk west along the mezzanine from Bright Angel Lodge past Kolb Studio, veer towards the Rim and you're on the BA Trail. You may also access the trail from behind the mule corral above the Hermit's Rest shuttle station. You cannot park at the South Kaibab Trail, it is accessed by the shuttle bus system or by parking at one of the view parking areas on Highway 64 or by a small parking lot just east of the turnoff to Yaki Point, (approx 1/2 mile walk). Parking at the South Kaibab Trail parking area will result in a fine as the Park Rangers patrol the parking lot daily. However, the shuttle bus does arrive every fifteen minutes and is a pleasant stress free method of commuting out to the South Kaibab Trail. Shuttle bus's depart early morning and into the evening hours, there is even a Kaibab Express shuttle that departs from several lodges. Check The Guide (GCNP newspaper) for seasonal departure times. Many day hikers, backpackers and Rim 2 Rimmers choose to start their hike on the South Kaibab and finish on the Bright Angel. In that manner they do not have to wait for a shuttle bus after they're finished hiking on the South Kaibab. As the Bright Angel Trail has the easiest access, it is naturally more crowded. However, the BA Trail does offer convenience for a hiker that simply wants to walk a few hundred yards below the Rim. TRAIL AMENITIES The Bright Angel Trail has numerous shelters, water stations and rest rooms along it's corridor. This is due to the fact the that Grand Canyon Water Pipeline meanders back and forth along the trail. (The water for the South Rim is actually piped from Roaring Springs near the North Rim). There is shelter, water and restrooms (no flush) at the 1.5 mile, 3 mile and Indian Gardens along with restroom only (no flush) at Pipe Creek Beach, with a shelter a couple hundred yards up the trail. In addition, Pipe Creek itself offers opportunities for water, but it is NOT recommended and it must be filtered as mules pass through the creek daily. The BA Trail also offers more opportunities for shade from the searing Arizona sun. The trail itself follows the lower portion of Pipe Creek into Indian Gardens with shade coming naturally from the steep canyon walls and Cottonwood trees. The South Kaibab Trail does not have any water stations or shelters on the trail. There is a water station located at the trail head on the South Rim, so make sure you carry a full ration of water with you on departure. There are restrooms (no flush) located at Cedar Ridge and near the junction of the Tonto Trail at "The Tipoff". Shade on the South Kaibab Trail is a commodity - there are no shade trees along the trail. Occasionally you will find shade along the numerous switchbacks, but be prepared for full sun any time of year. TRAIL CONDITIONS By far the South Kaibab is in much better shape than Bright Angel. As of the writing of this article (Fall 2011), the GCNP and several volunteer groups have spent countless hours grooming the trail. The main two causes of trail degradation is weather, (from monsoon washouts and snow) and mule traffic. Mules carrying guests and supplies back and forth to Phantom Ranch cause extensive damage to the trail. Generally, the result is large scooped "buckets" where the mules step over "water bars" (diversions running perpendicular to the trail). The result for the hiker is stepping to the side or over these "buckets", which are frequently filled with mule urine. It is in a word - disgusting. The Bright Angel Trail has hundreds of these "buckets" which make negotiating the trail awkward. The fact that a few hundred mule riders each month cause most of the damage to the trail system is a subject of debate for folks that frequently hike the Bright Angel or South Kaibab corridor trails. Recently, the GCNP has cancelled mule day rides to Plateau Point on BA trail to reduce the degradation. STEEPNESS Either trail requires a hiker to be in good physical condition in order to hike these trails. Too often hikers are lulled into a sense of security while descending and then discovering their limitations while ascending. Rescue calls during the late spring, summer and early fall months on either trail is common. This is a high altitude desert environment with steep trails. The combination can be fatal, usually resulting in heat stroke or a cardiac event for those that overestimate their abilities, are improperly clothed or have not carried enough water. The common phrase is "Hydrate or Die". The Bright Angel Trail is 7.6 miles to the Colorado River. This trail is less steep at the bottom and gets steeper near the Rim. From the river, one meanders along Pipe Creek, negotiates a handful of switchbacks and enters the Devil's Corkscrew, a beautiful moderately steep section of the trail which resembles a huge 3/4 mile spiral staircase. Once clear of the Devil's Corkscrew it is a light uphill riparian hike with several creek crossings to Indian Gardens. Most hikers take a break at Indian Gardens before the one mile slightly uphill hike to Jacob's Ladder. This is where the strenuous hiking begins. It is approximately 3.5 miles from the start of Jacob's Ladder to the South Rim. There are very few flat sections on the trail, it is relentless. Many hikers breeze from the Colorado River to Indian Gardens in a couple of hours, only to find their pace slowed to less than 1 mile an hour from Jacob's Ladder to the Rim. When hiking the BA trail from the River up, remember to conserve your energy for the final 3.5 miles!! The South Kaibab Trail is approximately 6 miles to the Colorado River. This trail is much steeper at the bottom than at the top. Given the fact that the South Kaibab Trail is shorter, means that the trail is steeper overall. It is also approximately 200' higher at the Rim than the BA Trail. Remember - there is no water stations or running water along the South Kaibab Trail, you must carry ample water. After emerging from the Black Bridge Tunnel at the Colorado River the hiker immediately engages a series of steep switchbacks which during the summer months can be devastating. There is a nice break with a fairly uphill hike after The Tipoff and then once again there is another set of extremely steep switchbacks that are usually in full sun to Skeleton Point. Skeleton Point is approximately halfway to the South Rim. The trail is moderately uphill, but still full sun to Cedar Ridge. The trail becomes steep again to Ooo-Aaah Point, levels off and the final climb out through the Chimney is short, but steep. Basically the South Kaibab Trail has three steep sections with moderate to easy breaks in between. Given that it is shorter than the BA Trail, it is a common choice for Park Rangers, Phantom Ranch employees and locals when the temperatures are moderate. SEASONS The Grand Canyon has four seasons and they frequently happen all in one day!! Advanced knowledge of the temperature, amount of snow and position of the sun will aid the hiker greatly in trail choices and outerwear. As a general rule of thumb, whatever the high temperature in Phoenix for the day will likely, within a few degrees, be the high temperature at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Sometimes during winter storms, this is not the case, but generally this guideline is pretty accurate. During the summer one can expect temperatures in excess of 130 degrees in full sun at the Colorado River/Phantom Ranch. The temperatures may only be in the 80's on the South Rim. (A dry and quite comfortable environment.) Conversely, during the winter months you may leave the South Rim at 10 degrees, only to find yourself in shorts and a short sleeve shirt just a few hours later basking in 60/70 degree temps. At any time of the year, on either the Bright Angel or South Kaibab Trails the hiker must be cognizant of the extreme change in temperatures, carry the appropriate amount of water and during the winter be ready to "layer" up or down with outerwear. Even though the South Rim of the Grand Canyon appears to be a high desert, we still get snow. A snow covered Rim is an exceptional sight and the hiker should not be discouraged by reports of 8-18" of snow along the South Rim. During snowy conditions it is best to descend on the Bright Angel Trail after 8AM in the morning. The reasoning is simple, the mule riders leave the South Rim on the BA Trail usually around 8AM...allow them to break the trail for you. The hiker must be extremely cautious on the descent, the snow usually covers 2-3" of solid ice on the trail. It is a NECESSITY to have Yak-Traks and a pair of hiking poles with snow baskets. Once the day moves forward, the mule riders will ascend the South Kaibab Trail from Phantom Ranch usually after 12 noon. A reasonable decent of the South Kaibab will now be considerably easier along with Yak-Tracks and poles. Typically, if there is little or no snow on the trail, (ice is almost always present during winter months), the South Kaibab is the best choice since it receives more direct sun higher toward the South Rim during the winter. One of the most important considerations when hiking in the Grand Canyon on either the Bright Angel or South Kaibab is the time of year and how it relates to the angle of the sun in the sky. Keep in mind the 22nd or 23rd of June is the summer solstice when the sun is at it's highest point. Obviously the sun and it's reflective capabilities against the rock walls of the Canyon is at it's strongest during this time. For example, hiking in mid-May is considerably hotter than hiking in mid-October. The further in the year beyond the summer solstice, the lower the sun is in the sky from the South. This will cast deep shadows into the Canyon from the South Rim itself. Both trails are effected by this phenomenon, however the Bright Angel Trail is effected more so since it runs it's course up the very southern edge of the BA Canyon. You can expect most of the steep part of Bright Angel Trail to be in the shadows and covered with ice during the winter. During the summer, Bright Angel also offers more shade, especially after 3pm in the afternoon. Therefore, the best choice for winter hiking is the South Kaibab Trail, you will likely have warm sun throughout the day. During the summer, the South Kaibab Trail is akin to an oven. We generally rarely hike the South Kaibab Trail beyond Cedar Ridge during June, July and August. This article is meant to provide the South Rim hiker with a general idea of the characteristics between the Bright Angel and South Kaibab Trails. Anytime a hiker enters the Canyon for more than a 1.5 miles, (1.5 mile Resthouse on BA or Cedar Ridge on SK), they should check with Grand Canyon National Park personnel for daily trail conditions.